2015年7月14日星期二

Wood Floor Planer

Wood Floor Planer


apply to wood surface for planing, chamfering and lapping operation


Product:Wood Floor Planer
Voltage:220V/110V
Rated frequency:50Hz/60Hz
Input Power:1200W
No-load speed:2000-3000rpm
Planing Width:150mm
Planing Depth:4mm
Accessories:blade guide assembly, blade set, sharpening set,guide ruler, socket wrench



Portable Wood Floor Planer/Portable Electric Planer Blade

tungsten carbide planing knives to fit all portable electric 
planers and wooodworking planing machines.These knives are ground to high 
surface finish and perfectly parallel sets to minimize noise and ensure lower 
maintenance and longer equipment life. They are suitable for woodworking 
planer, thicknesser, double-side planer on the processing of wood, plywood, 
multilayer board, plastic board.

What Are the Dangers of Power Tools?

What Are the Dangers of Power Tools?

Appropriate personal protective equipment such as safety goggles and gloves must be worn to protect against hazards that may be encountered while using hand tools.

Workplace floors shall be kept as clean and dry as possible to prevent accidental slips with or around dangerous hand tools.

Power tools must be fitted with guards and safety switches; they are extremely hazardous when used improperly. The types of power tools are determined by their power source: electric, pneumatic, liquid fuel, hydraulic, and powder-actuated.

To prevent hazards associated with the use of power tools, workers should observe the following general precautions:

  • Never carry a tool by the cord or hose.
  • Never yank the cord or the hose to disconnect it from the receptacle.
  • Keep cords and hoses away from heat, oil, and sharp edges.
  • Disconnect tools when not using them, before servicing and cleaning them, and when changing accessories such as blades, bits, and cutters.
  • Keep all people not involved with the work at a safe distance from the work area.
  • Secure work with clamps or a vise, freeing both hands to operate the tool.
  • Avoid accidental starting. Do not hold fingers on the switch button while carrying a plugged-in tool.
  • Maintain tools with care; keep them sharp and clean for best performance.
  • Follow instructions in the user's manual for lubricating and changing accessories.
  • Be sure to keep good footing and maintain good balance when operating power tools.
  • Wear proper apparel for the task. Loose clothing, ties, or jewelry can become caught in moving parts.
  • Remove all damaged portable electric tools from use and tag them: "Do Not Use."

Guards
The exposed moving parts of power tools need to be safeguarded. Belts, gears, shafts, pulleys, sprockets, spindles, drums, flywheels, chains, or other reciprocating, rotating, or moving parts of equipment must be guarded.

Machine guards, as appropriate, must be provided to protect the operator and others from the following:

  • Point of operation.
  • In-running nip points.
  • Rotating parts.
  • Flying chips and sparks.
Safety guards must never be removed when a tool is being used. Portable circular saws having a blade greater than 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) in diameter must be equipped at all times with guards. An upper guard must cover the entire blade of the saw. A retractable lower guard must cover the teeth of the saw, except where it makes contact with the work material. The lower guard must automatically return to the covering position when the tool is withdrawn from the work material.


Operating Controls and Switches
The following hand-held power tools must be equipped with a constant-pressure switch or control that shuts off the power when pressure is released: drills; tappers; fastener drivers; horizontal, vertical, and angle grinders with wheels more than 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) in diameter; disc sanders with discs greater than 2 inches (5.08 centimeters); belt sanders; reciprocating saws; saber saws, scroll saws, and jigsaws with blade shanks greater than 1/4-inch (0.63 centimeters) wide; and other similar tools. These tools also may be equipped with a "lock-on" control, if it allows the worker to also shut off the control in a single motion using the same finger or fingers. The following hand-held power tools must be equipped with either a positive "on-off" control switch, a constant pressure switch, or a "lock-on" control: disc sanders with discs 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) or less in diameter; grinders with wheels 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) or less in diameter; platen sanders, routers, planers, laminate trimmers, nibblers, shears, and scroll saws; and jigsaws, saber and scroll saws with blade shanks a nominal 1/4-inch (6.35 millimeters) or less in diameter. It is recommended that the constant-pressure control switch be regarded as the preferred device.

Other hand-held power tools such as circular saws having a blade diameter greater than 2 inches (5.08 centimeters), chain saws, and percussion tools with no means of holding accessories securely must be equipped with a constant-pressure switch.


Electric Tools
Employees using electric tools must be aware of several dangers. Among the most serious hazards are electrical burns and shocks.

Electrical shocks, which can lead to injuries such as heart failure and burns, are among the major hazards associated with electric-powered tools. Under certain conditions, even a small amount of electric current can result in fibrillation of the heart and death. An electric shock also can cause the user to fall off a ladder or other elevated work surface and be injured due to the fall.

To protect the user from shock and burns, electric tools must have a three-wire cord with a ground and be plugged into a grounded receptacle, be double insulated, or be powered by a low-voltage isolation transformer. Three-wire cords contain two current-carrying conductors and a grounding conductor. Any time an adapter is used to accommodate a two-hole receptacle, the adapter wire must be attached to a known ground. The third prong must never be removed from the plug.

Double-insulated tools are available that provide protection against electrical shock without third-wire grounding. On double-insulated tools, an internal layer of protective insulation completely isolates the external housing of the tool.

The following general practices should be followed when using electric tools:

  • Operate electric tools within their design limitations.
  • Use gloves and appropriate safety footwear when using electric tools.
  • Store electric tools in a dry place when not in use.
  • Do not use electric tools in damp or wet locations unless they are approved for that purpose.
  • Keep work areas well lighted when operating electric tools.
  • Ensure that cords from electric tools do not present a tripping hazard.
In the construction industry, employees who use electric tools must be protected by ground-fault circuit interrupters or an assured equipment-grounding conductor program.

Portable Abrasive Wheel Tools
Portable abrasive grinding, cutting, polishing, and wire buffing wheels create special safety problems because they may throw off flying fragments. Abrasive wheel tools must be equipped with guards that: (1) cover the spindle end, nut, and flange projections; (2) maintain proper alignment with the wheel; and (3) do not exceed the strength of the fastenings.

Before an abrasive wheel is mounted, it must be inspected closely for damage and should be sound- or ring-tested to ensure that it is free from cracks or defects. To test, wheels should be tapped gently with a light, non-metallic instrument. If the wheels sound cracked or dead, they must not be used because they could fly apart in operation. A stable and undamaged wheel, when tapped, will give a clear metallic tone or "ring."

To prevent an abrasive wheel from cracking, it must fit freely on the spindle. The spindle nut must be tightened enough to hold the wheel in place without distorting the flange. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Take care to ensure that the spindle speed of the machine will not exceed the maximum operating speed marked on the wheel.

An abrasive wheel may disintegrate or explode during start-up. Allow the tool to come up to operating speed prior to grinding or cutting. The employee should never stand in the plane of rotation of the wheel as it accelerates to full operating speedPortable grinding tools need to be equipped with safety guards to protect workers not only from the moving wheel surface, but also from flying fragments in case of wheel breakage.

When using a powered grinder:

  • Always use eye or face protection.
  • Turn off the power when not in use.
  • Never clamp a hand-held grinder in a vise.

Pneumatic Tools
Pneumatic tools are powered by compressed air and include chippers, drills, hammers, and sanders.

There are several dangers associated with the use of pneumatic tools. First and foremost is the danger of getting hit by one of the tool's attachments or by some kind of fastener the worker is using with the tool.

Pneumatic tools must be checked to see that the tools are fastened securely to the air hose to prevent them from becoming disconnected. A short wire or positive locking device attaching the air hose to the tool must also be used and will serve as an added safeguard.

If an air hose is more than 1/2-inch (12.7 millimeters) in diameter, a safety excess flow valve must be installed at the source of the air supply to reduce pressure in case of hose failure.

In general, the same precautions should be taken with an air hose that are recommended for electric cords, because the hose is subject to the same kind of damage or accidental striking, and because it also presents tripping hazards.

When using pneumatic tools, a safety clip or retainer must be installed to prevent attachments such as chisels on a chipping hammer from being ejected during tool operation.

Pneumatic tools that shoot nails, rivets, staples, or similar fasteners and operate at pressures more than 100 pounds per square inch (6,890 kPa), must be equipped with a special device to keep fasteners from being ejected, unless the muzzle is pressed against the work surface.

Airless spray guns that atomize paints and fluids at pressures of 1,000 pounds or more per square inch (6,890 kPa) must be equipped with automatic or visible manual safety devices that will prevent pulling the trigger until the safety device is manually released.

Eye protection is required, and head and face protection is recommended for employees working with pneumatic tools.

Screens must also be set up to protect nearby workers from being struck by flying fragments around chippers, riveting guns, staplers, or air drills.

Compressed air guns should never be pointed toward anyone. Workers should never "dead-end" them against themselves or anyone else. A chip guard must be used when compressed air is used for cleaning.

Use of heavy jackhammers can cause fatigue and strains. Heavy rubber grips reduce these effects by providing a secure handhold. Workers operating a jackhammer must wear safety glasses and safety shoes that protect them against injury if the jackhammer slips or falls. A face shield also should be used.

Noise is another hazard associated with pneumatic tools. Working with noisy tools such as jackhammers requires proper, effective use of appropriate hearing protection.


Liquid Fuel Tools
Fuel-powered tools are usually operated with gasoline. The most serious hazard associated with the use of fuel-powered tools comes from fuel vapors that can burn or explode and also give off dangerous exhaust fumes. The worker must be careful to handle, transport, and store gas or fuel only in approved flammable liquid containers, according to proper procedures for flammable liquids.

Before refilling a fuel-powered tool tank, the user must shut down the engine and allow it to cool to prevent accidental ignition of hazardous vapors. When a fuel-powered tool is used inside a closed area, effective ventilation and/or proper respirators such as atmosphere-supplying respirators must be utilized to avoid breathing carbon monoxide. Fire extinguishers must also be available in the area.


Powder-Actuated Tools
Powder-actuated tools operate like a loaded gun and must be treated with extreme caution. In fact, they are so dangerous that they must be operated only by specially trained employees.

When using powder-actuated tools, an employee must wear suitable ear, eye, and face protection. The user must select a powder level -- high or low velocity -- that is appropriate for the powder-actuated tool and necessary to do the work without excessive force.

The muzzle end of the tool must have a protective shield or guard centered perpendicular to and concentric with the barrel to confine any fragments or particles that are projected when the tool is fired. A tool containing a high-velocity load must be designed not to fire unless it has this kind of safety device.

To prevent the tool from firing accidentally, two separate motions are required for firing. The first motion is to bring the tool into the firing position, and the second motion is to pull the trigger. The tool must not be able to operate until it is pressed against the work surface with a force of at least 5 pounds (2.2 kg) greater than the total weight of the tool.

If a powder-actuated tool misfires, the user must hold the tool in the operating position for at least 30 seconds before trying to fire it again. If it still will not fire, the user must hold the tool in the operating position for another 30 seconds and then carefully remove the load in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. This procedure will make the faulty cartridge less likely to explode. The bad cartridge should then be put in water immediately after removal. If the tool develops a defect during use, it should betagged and must be taken out of service immediately until it is properly repaired.

Safety precautions that must be followed when using powder-actuated tools include the following:

  • Do not use a tool in an explosive or flammable atmosphere.
  • Inspect the tool before using it to determine that it is clean, that all moving parts operate freely, and that the barrel is free from obstructions and has the proper shield, guard, and attachments recommended by the manufacturer.
  • Do not load the tool unless it is to be used immediately.
  • Do not leave a loaded tool unattended, especially where it would be available to unauthorized persons.
  • Keep hands clear of the barrel end.
  • Never point the tool at anyone.
When using powder-actuated tools to apply fasteners, several additional procedures must be followed:
  • Do not fire fasteners into material that would allow the fasteners to pass through to the other side.
  • Do not drive fasteners into very hard or brittle material that might chip or splatter or make the fasteners ricochet.
  • Always use an alignment guide when shooting fasteners into existing holes.
  • When using a high-velocity tool, do not drive fasteners more than 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) from an unsupported edge or corner of material such as brick or concrete.
  • When using a high velocity tool, do not place fasteners in steel any closer than 1/2-inch (1.27 centimeters) from an unsupported corner edge unless a special guard, fixture, or jig is used.

Hydraulic Power Tools
The fluid used in hydraulic power tools must be an approved fire-resistant fluid and must retain its operating characteristics at the most extreme temperatures to which it will be exposed. The exception to fire-resistant fluid involves all hydraulic fluids used for the insulated sections of derrick trucks, aerial lifts, and hydraulic tools that are used on or around energized lines. This hydraulic fluid shall be of the insulating type.

The manufacturer's recommended safe operating pressure for hoses, valves, pipes, filters, and other fittings must not be exceeded.

All jacks -- including lever and ratchet jacks, screw jacks, and hydraulic jacks -- must have a stop indicator, and the stop limit must not be exceeded. Also, the manufacturer's load limit must be permanently marked in a prominent place on the jack, and the load limit must not be exceeded.

A jack should never be used to support a lifted load. Once the load has been lifted, it must immediately be blocked up. Put a block under the base of the jack when the foundation is not firm, and place a block between the jack cap and load if the cap might slip.

To set up a jack, make certain of the following:

  • The base of the jack rests on a firm, level surface;
  • The jack is correctly centered;
  • The jack head bears against a level surface; and
  • The lift force is applied evenly.
Proper maintenance of jacks is essential for safety. All jacks must be lubricated regularly. In addition, each jack must be inspected according to the following schedule: (1) for jacks used continuously or intermittently at one site -- inspected at least once every 6 months, (2) for jacks sent out of the shop for special work -- inspected when sent out and inspected when returned, and (3) for jacks subjected to abnormal loads or shock -- inspected before use and immediately thereafter.

how you use an electric wood planer electric wood planer application

 electric wood planer application

Spiral cutter head
Chatter-free cuts
Unlimited rabbets
Optional bench unit
Optional rustic heads

Benefits of portable corded power Planers.

Depth controls are integrated into the handle, for easy adjustment on the fly.

Single blade planer head design for rapid blade changes.

Smooth cut performance reduces sanding time.

Single knife cutterhead produces less noise, reducing user fatigue.

Unlimited rabbeting feature does not leave a lip.

High dust extraction efficiency for less clean-up time and greater work efficiency.

Versatile – create smooth or rustic effects.

Safer – the side guard swings up as the rabbet depth increases.

Convert into a bench-mounted planer, with optional bench unit.


Planing Without Limits.

Conventional planers run up against obstacles during practical use because of design limitations such as limited rabbet depth and heavy tool weight. power planer has overcome these obstacles by introducing solutions that guarantee effortless operation, greater versatility and improved finished results.


Unlimited Rabbeting.

power planer is equipped with a single spiral blade cutterhead. Because the blade is drawn across the workpiece at an angle, it cuts cleaner, producing less noise and a smooth surface. And there’s no limit to the depth of rabbeting, or your ability to plane up to an edge, thanks to the planer head’s ability to cut flush to one side.


When you need precise material removal, choose power planer


Planing Applications.

This planer is capable of leaving a smooth surface while removing a full 9/64" of material from hard maple in a single pass. Use the optional bench unit with the planer for working with smaller pieces. By freeing up both hands, the workpiece is easier to control. A spiral blade makes chatter-free cuts that are ready to glue or finish without the need to sand, and blade changes are simple, given that there is only one self-aligning blade.


The special design of the cutterhead allows it to cut flush with the side of the tool, allowing you to make unlimited rabbet cuts on wood edges, and the built-in groove on the base plate simplifies chamfer cuts. Multiple cutting heads are available for creating different rustic effects, and as with most Festool tools, dust extraction ports are incorporated to make cleanup fast and easy.





 list of specifications of the planer



Standard Package Includes
Parallel Edge Guide
Standard Planer Head
Solid Carbide Standard Blade
Rabbet Depth Guide



Specifications
Power Consumption720 Watts / 6 Amps 120 volts AC850 watts / 7 amp 120 volts AC
Drive Shaft Speed15,600 RPM10,000 RPM
Cutting Depth0 - 5/32" (0 - 4 mm)0 - 9/64" (0 - 3.5 mm)
Rabbeting Depth0 - 29/32" (0 - 23 mm)Unlimited
Head Width2-9/16" (65 mm)3-15/64" (82 mm)
Noise Level At Idle76 dB (A)79 dB (A)
Weight5.3 lbs. (2.4 Kg)8.6 lbs. (3.9 kg)

 how you use an electric wood planer

This machine, simply, planes the wood from saw finish to fine. It's mainly used in doors.

You can plane the edge of the door off. In wider pieces like this, you could do it, but you will get a series of lines which will need some sanding out afterwards.

You can set the blade by a knob on the front or sometimes at the top. They normally go from one millimeter up to 4.5.

The majority of the DIY ones go up to about 2.5 millimeters. It's very important not to take too much off in one hit.

You couldn't use this plane and then leave it unfinished. You'd have to sand it. But basically, simply to use the machine, it planes wood and wood only.

Do not attempt to plane metal with this, as it is extremely dangerous. So before we carry out some use of it, and a little bit more talk on it, just remember one thing, to always wear your safety goggles and your safety mask. As you can note, when I finished, I put it on its side.

Do not put it straight down on its face, especially on metal, because it will damage the blades. That will give me a pretty good finish now, and I can sand that, and that'll be perfect. As you can also see, there was a lot of debris that came out the bottom and the sides.

You can buy dust retraction kits for these and they're particularly useful, particularly when using them in the home. As a DIY novice, I wouldn't advise you to use one of these unless you've been shown how to use it by a professional. They're extremely dangerous, but extremely good when you can get the hang of them.







How To Use a Portable Power Planer What Does a Wood Planer Do?

How To Use a Portable Power Planer


power planers are to jack planes as portable circular saws are to handsaws. Both the planer and the circular saw are powerful electric-powered tools; they do much the same work that the jack plane and handsaw do, or once did, but they do it more quickly, sometimes more efficiently and accurately, and always at a higher decibel level.
The power planer is a hand-held tool, but it operates like an upside-down stationary jointer. There’s a cutter-head with a pair of sharp knives that, like a plane iron, removes shavings of stock. The cutterhead is aligned with the rear portion of the tool’s base; the front shoe of the plane adjusts to control the depth of cut.
The power planer cuts no more than a sixteenth of an inch at a pass. The depth of cut is adjusted on most models by a control knob mounted atop the front of the planer. Some power planers come equipped with an adjustable fence.
The size of the portable power planer is determined by the tool’s maximum cutting width. Most models available on the market today plane a maximum width of between three and a quarter and six and a half inches.
Operating a power planer is similar to using a bench plane, but requires much less effort: You don’t need to drive the plane, rather, you guide it along the path you wish planed. Clamp the workpiece securely and make sure your stance is balanced. Although little force will be required, use both hands to control the tool, with your left hand guiding the plane at the front, the right balancing the rear.
Before planing the length of a board, put some pressure at the front of the plane to ensure that the sole is sitting flush to the piece (rather than on an incline, with the toe lifted above the piece). Likewise, be sure the heel is parallel to the board at the end of the planing stroke, just as you would with a bench plane. This prevents dipping, the defect that occurs when more wood is planed from the ends than from the center of the stock. Check your work for flatness as you proceed, using a metal straightedge.
The power planer has many uses in a workshop, particularly a smaller workshop that doesn’t have a full-sized jointer-planer or surface planer. It will remove sawmarks, even off rough edges, and trim stock with ease. It’s invaluable when fitting doors, either the full-sized or cabinet variety. It’ll taper and surface, too.
A final word of warning is in order, however. Like the bigger jointer-planers, which are known for shaving off fingertips as well as stock, this machine has a wicked bite. Use it with care, planning, and respect.

In this segment, I'm going to show you how to use a handheld power planer. 

There are a lot of great applications for your handheld power planer around the house. 

1. shape some doors that are a little bit tight for their opening. 
2. straighten out a crooked cut. 
3. clean up a painted or rough surface that you want to look like bare wood. 

Whatever you're using your tool for, always wear your safety glasses and hearing protection. And, keep your fingers and other articles of clothing, and that sort of thing, out of the way. 

Now, once you're ready to work, the first thing you want to do is set the depth of your cut. There's a knob on the front of your power planer with a range of depths you want to use. It's best to take off a little bit of material at a time, and make a few passes, as opposed to trying to take it all off at once. Once your depth is set, you want to choose which dust port you want the waste to exit from. Here are my two dust ports. I'm going to choose for the material to get blown that way. So, I just flip that switch. There's an arrow that tells you which way you're going. The really important thing to remember when you're using this tool is to keep the tool square on your work piece, particularly when you're exiting your work piece at the end of your cut. Most of the tool is no longer on the work piece, and it's real easy to let the tool dive. If you let that happen, you can wind up with a big gouge out of your work. So, you can clamp on a extra scrap piece to keep the tool straight while you're exiting your work. Or, just take extra care, and keep that thing straight at the end of your cut.  


What Does a Wood Planer Do?


Whether you create a striking piece of furniture or prepare a rough board for finish carpentry work, beginning with a uniformly thick board prepares you for a good result. A wood planer helps you even out a piece of wood into a board with the exact same thickness everywhere. A correctly planed board is completely flat on both sides, eliminating rough spots or leftover bark. Portable handheld planers are useful for offsite applications, while stationary planers work well in woodworking shops and larger-scale operations.


Handheld Wood Planer Operation

A handheld wood planer is portable, and older models likely are the type of planer you will have seen at an antiques show. Unlike stationary wood planers -- where you feed the wood into the planer -- a handheld requires you clamp the wood in place so you can manipulate the planer. Most handheld planers now are electric, whereas older and antique models work solely by the hand and arm pressure applied by the user.


Stationary Wood Planer Function

To use a stationary wood planer, place a flat board on the planer table or the work surface on which the planer sits. After taking safety precautions, turn on the planer. Begin pushing the board into the planer. Almost immediately, the planer's feed roller takes over, pulling the board through the machine. While the board travels through the planer, the rotating cutter head removes a preset amount of wood from the board. Because all planers are limited in the amount of wood they can remove at one time, you likely need to make more than one pass to acquire the board thickness you want.


Planer Applications

A skilled wood planer operator gives new life to scrap wood by shaving off unwanted grooves or protrusions. Use each modified wood piece by itself, or glue it to other planed pieces for a thicker board or block. If the glued-up boards or blocks slip while drying, and result in slightly uneven joints, use a planer to make the surface uniform again. If you plan to make cutting boards, woodcarvings or other craft items, save time by trimming the boards with a planer. A wood planer also makes short work of reclaimed wood -- often a valuable commodity for construction and furniture applications. After you remove screws or nails, use the planer to create a board with the correct thickness and appeal.


Wood Planer Selection

Consider three variables as you evaluate different planer models. Note how easy it will be to keep the cutting blades sharpened. Some planers feature double-sided disposable knives you replace when they wear out; others have blades you must sharpen when they become dull. Also note whether a specific planer allows you to preset the thickness for multiple boards, eliminating the laborious work of manually setting your cuts for each board. Finally, a well-equipped stationary planer includes some type of dust collection system. Some manufacturers include a dust-collection hood in the planer package, while others offer the hood as an optional accessory.




Electric Planers vs. Manual Planes


A plane is a tool used to shape wood by scraping the bladed edge over the wood. Planes are used to flatten and smooth wood. The plane is generally made from a sharpened metal plate attached to a firm body. When moved over a block of wood, the plane provides a uniform shave via a constant angle of the cutting edge. The cutter extends below the bottom surface (also known as the sole) of the plane to slice off shavings of wood. In this buyer’s guide, manual planes and electric planers (note the difference in name between the two similar tools) will be examined. Consumers can find planes and planers in most hardware and home improvement stores. 

Manual Planes
Much like any manual vs. electric tool, manual planes are much less expensive than their powered brethren. The advantage that manual planes, which are also known as hand planes, have over electric planes is that they allow much more control. A person can shave wood much more precisely with a manual plane. Another potential benefit of manual planes is that they provide more comfort to the user. Manual planes are most often used in furniture making because of the control required to create the legs and arms of chairs and tables.

Manual Plane Sizes
Manual planes come in a variety of sizes depending on the cutter and body size. The following table provides an overview of manual plane sizes based on Stanley sizes.



Jack Plane
The jack plane is a simple tool that can be used to plane timber. It consists of a block of wood with the blade on the bottom and a handle sticking out of the top. The iron blade on the bottom can be ground and exposed to plane rough timber or provide a final smoothness to wood projects.

Block Plane
The block plane has a blade placed bevel side up. Some models have an adjustable mouth to allow extremely thin shaving. The block plane is one of the smaller planes, so it is too short to straighten boards. There are two main types of block planes: standard planes, which have a blade pitched at 20 degrees, and low-angle planes, which have the blade angle at 12 degrees. Low-angle block planes can be used to fit shingles, shave corners of swelled doors, and fine-tune trims.

Electric Planers
Although electric planers are more expensive than manual planes, they provide much more power and can be used more efficiently. While users do not the get the same kind of control with an electric planer as a manual planer, the power of the electric planer makes it suitable for bigger projects. Electric planers can also be used to take paint off of recycled boards. Another common use for electric planers is to remove material quickly when performing house framing.

Cordless Electric Planers
Cordless electric planers offer much more convenience and maneuverability. However, consumers should know that the benefits of cordless electric planers come at a price. Namely, they cost more and require a rechargeable battery and battery charger. Because the battery charge does not last for a long time, users should plan their planing before starting work so that the tool does not lose charge in the middle of the task.

Corded Electric Planers
Unlike cordless electric planers, corded electric planers can be used without worrying about losing power in the middle of a task. In addition to being less expensive than cordless electric planers, users do not need to worry about charging batteries. People using corded electric planers must have access to an outlet, which can be cumbersome for planing projects.

Stationary Planers
Stationary planers are larger tools on which the wood is moved rather than the tool. Stationary planers are used to cut a piece of wood to a desired thickness. Boards are placed on a belt and the cutting is done from the top of the board rather than the bottom like maneuverable planers. The head contains two rotating knives, known together as the head. The key variables in a stationary planer are an extension for the table and accurate depth control settings.

Manufacturers of Electric Planers and Manual Planes
There are many manufacturers of planers and planes, and some people even create their own manual planes. The following list provides a number of major companies involved in the planing business. This list is not exhaustive, but will provide the starting point for searching for planing equipment.

Black & Decker
Black & Decker is a well known name in power tools. In addition to planers, the company designs power tools for cutting, cleaning, painting, and automotive purposes among other applications. Black & Decker has a 3.25-inch corded planer that includes a lock-on button that allows for extended planer use. There is also a chamfering groove that allows the power tool to be used for decorative edges.

Dewalt
Like Black & Decker, Dewalt designs a wide array of power tools for a number of applications, including drilling, fastening, metalworking, nailing, and cutting. In terms of planers, Dewalt makes both portable and stationary planers. The stationary planers have three knives and two speeds. The user can change speeds to optimize cuts per inch. The company’s hand planers have a depth adjustment knob that is sensitive up to 0.0625 inches.

Rockwell
Rockwell is a tool company that has a wide assortment of power tools, including cordless and oscillating tools. The company also makes sanders, saws, grinders, and tool accessories. Rockwell’s planer has a dual-exhaust system that allows for dust chips to be ejected to either side of the planer. The planer has a soft knob in the front that helps the user adjust the depth of the planing.

Sargent
Sargent was one of the major manufacturers of hand planes through the 20th century. While new Sargent planes are no longer being manufactured, the company was so productive that their hand planes are widely available and often considered collectors items. The blades of the planes can be sharpened and the tools can still be used. Replacement parts, however, may be difficult to come by.

Stanley Hand Tools
As noted above, Stanley plane sizes have become the standard unit of manual planes. The company also designs tools for measuring, cutting, and finishing. Many Stanley models have a nickel-plated, black-finish bottom to facilitate smooth planing. Other models have an epoxy coating on the bottom to enhance durability. The clamping wheel of some models can be loosened to change the thickness and evenness of the shavings.


Conclusion
When a person wants to thin or smooth a piece of wood, then he or she would use a plane or planer. Hand planes can be used for fine smooth and detailed work such as when one makes furniture. Electric planers, both portable and stationary, can be used for bigger jobs such as evening larger wooden boards. Many woodworking specialists prefer manual planes to electric planers because power tools simply provide too much power. In this guide, an overview of planes and planers has been presented, including a table of hand plane sizes, a look at corded and cordless planers, and a list of reputable manufacturers of both planes and planers. Some tips for using eBay to help consumers get their planes and planers via either the category directory or search engine are also provided. eBay is an excellent place to go for planing equipment because the site has products from every major manufacturer and bargains on many planes and planers.